Guest Post: Finding a Climbing Mentor

Anne Hughes

Last week I posted and interview with Anne Hughes, a late-blooming athlete who took to climbing as an adult and found that she blossomed through the sport—both physically and mentally. (If you haven’t read it yet, go. Now. We’ll be here when you get back.)

A big influence for Anne that she mentions in the interview are the various mentors she developed relationships over the years. Men and women who have inspired, encouraged, educated and supported her as she grew as a climber, and in life.

In the comments, Laurel asked if one of us would be willing to write more on the subject of finding good mentors:

You mentioned finding mentors... I wonder if you (Anne or Amy) would be willing to write more about how to find mentors and climbing partners, when many experienced climbers are (very understandably) choosy about who they climb with?

So I wrote to Anne and asked if she’d be willing to write a response, guessing her experience and wisdom could offer not only Laurel, but all of my amazing readers, a more in-depth answer than I could provide.

And boy was I right! I’m so excited to tell you that Anne graciously and enthusiastically agreed. (And did I mentioned that this is the very first guest post for Expand Outdoors?!? No? Well, it is, and I couldn’t have asked for a more perfect topic and guest. Thank you Anne!)

Her advice doesn't simply focus on climbing mentors, her insights and information turns out to be relevant to all kinds of mentor/mentee relationships.

So I now present to you Anne Hughes, and her words of mentoring wisdom. Enjoy.

anne hughes: on finding climbing mentors

Kim Reynolds, Anne Hughes, Mattie Sheafor | Red Rocks, NV

The first thought I have is be open to finding a mentor—there is a certain chemistry that happens between two people when one chooses to mentor another. Make a place for a mentor, so to speak, and keep your eyes open. Continue climbing and learning about the sport any way you can. And along the way, as a climber and in life, it can’t hurt to be friendly. That last one’s the mom in me shining through!

You might find a mentor by attending clinics, events, workshops or classes. And, what the heck, it will help you climb better sooner, eh? I became friends Mattie Sheafor and Kim Reynolds by enrolling in a workshop at Chicks Rock.

I was wowed by the exceptional instruction generously and wisely doled out by women guides who challenged me and inspired me beyond my greatest expectations.

Through Chicks, I learned of workshops Mattie used to run called Women that Rock. Attending workshops, you will learn a lot and you may very well meet people who become climbing partners or even mentors. And there is the flip side… you may meet someone you’d like to mentor.

Anne with dear friend, Vera Naputi

One of the women I met at Chicks with Picks, Cheryl W, inspired me with a goal she set for herself. She made a point to make sure that half of the days she climbed per year would be spent with those who climb harder than her, and half with those who climbed less hard than she did. There are rewards in this, making sure we give back.

You could hire a climbing guide to acquire skills and inspiration. There are lots of guide services. When I wanted to try trad climbing I hired a guide at Exum Mountain Guides. Some of the guides I know from Chicks with Picks and Women That Rock also can be hired from Exum and at similar services (Colsey and Houston Alpine Guides and San Juan Mountain Guides, just to name a few).

Learning from professionals is a worthwhile investment from time to time on your climbing journey. After all, there is an element of risk in our sport that must be managed throughout our years on rock and ice.

be safe

Which brings us to safety. Laurel’s comment that skilled climbers are picky about who belays them and with whom they want to spend their days is valid. I don’t care if my climbing partner on a given day climbs at the same level, but I do care that he/she displays an attitude of safety and responsibility.

I recommend you learn to belay really well. Lots of people think they belay well, but truly bomber belayers are rare. Dedicate yourself to becoming a great belayer and to understanding systems and safety in our sport and people will be more willing to share time and information with you, for sure.

guides & mentors: Anne, Mattie, Angela, Kim, Kitty

Our climbing club, Madison Women Climbers (MWC) predates our climbing gym, and our first REI store. At MWC, mentoring is a sub-current. Sarah Short organized MWC decades ago because so few women were climbing at the local crag, and the few there were, belayed more than climbed.

We climb together, support each other, form partnerships, offer clinics on climbing skills, et cetera. I met a handful of my most treasured climbing partners through MWC and each of them has mentored me the way only close climber-friends can. I’m always confident when one of them holds my rope. And our days together are jewels.

Like the start of MWC, Mattie Sheafor started her workshops, Women that Rock, because the women who were coming into the mountaineering store where she worked mentioned they needed partners. Mattie thought, “These women should know each other!”

She posted some flyers and created what she thought would be a single Saturday event with maybe a dozen women. But to her amazement, she got four times that many women! Like MWC, Women that Rock had a momentum all it’s own, continuing as an annual four-day workshop for over 15 years.

Start a climbing club at your crag or gym! It doesn’t matter what level you climb. If you can run a meeting, you can gather other like minded climbers. Mentor each other!

be someone others want to climb with

MWC climbers | Clear Creek, CO

Finally, be a person others will want to climb with. I learned this from the women who have helped me along the way (you know who you are! Thank you, thank you!).

In preparation for writing this, I consulted a few of my best climbing partners and mentors. The conversations always went from practicalities to personal integrity.

• Beware of overselling your climbing skills even though you are eager to be included. Integrity matters more than current skill level.
• Be positive and supportive in your own right.
• Really use your head. Be willing to solve problems, ask questions, listen carefully, as well as think for yourself.
• Think out-loud and listen to the answers.
• Rather than lean on a more skilled climbing partner, be another set of eyes, another brain, another set of hands willing to face a challenge.
• Think about safety.
• Be helpful.
• Double-check stuff.

Experienced people know integrity and responsibility when they see it and are likely to invite you along and show you the ropes.

thank you!

A HUGE thank you to Laurel for asking such a great question and to Anne for so graciously and expertly answering it. You can read Anne's interview, Climbing in Three Dimensions, here.

I’d also love to hear you guys weigh in on your thoughts about mentoring—either climbing-specific, or in general. You can let me know in the comments, on facebook, or email me directly. I love hearing from you.

All photos provided by Anne.

Comments

[Laurel]

Ironically I am on the board of a local women climbers' club and a member of another mixed gender more mountaineering oriented club. I organize trips but of the people who come, I wouldn't necessarily say I'm "better" but I am usually climbing at the highest grade numbers, so instead of pushing myself it's the opposite, I need to be more conscious about leading stuff that other people will want to TR instead of just things that only I would enjoy. I don't at all mind this, it's just that when it's 99% of the time, I want to try something different. I like what your friend said about climbing half the time with people who climb harder and people who climb less hard.

Occasionally it just happens that I do climb with people who climb harder than me, and it's always been great, but I can't seem to make this happen deliberately. There are always plenty of people at the crag though.. maybe I need to get over my aversion to bothering people and just ask them if they'd be willing to let me tag along with them next time. Though I can't imagine what I would say! "hey, my climbing partners don't want to do 5.11s, and it looks like you can, can I climb with you?" ;)

[Anne Hughes]

That last part sounds good, Laurel -- be a presence at the crag, project one of those 11s, while getting to know some of the other regulars. If it feels right, ask if they've been on your route and how they would do that crux. Find out about them and their climbing goals. Often people like to share and are actually flattered you'd ask. In time you'll notice who you are drawn to and maybe you can see if they'll be back next weekend again and how about climbing together then. Something like that.

Good for you, being so active in your area, organizing trips, getting routes up for the group to TR on. You are making things happen! It is important to get your own needs met too. As Anne Morrow Lindbergh points out women too often are trying to water a field with only a pitcher, never taking the time to refill their pitcher. They just pour and pour until they are dry. Notice who is the best lead belayer and/or might be receptive to your suggestions about how you want to be belayed. Belaying a leader is quite the art and a position of serious responsibility. With such a person watching your back, managing your belay, you'll be able to lead the routes that call to you without worrying about what's going on there at the other end of your rope. Then, you do the same for them, at their level on their particular route. Good luck, climb safely, and above all have fun!